Norwich Roofers provides full roof replacements for homeowners in Spixworth, stripping back to the rafters, dealing with any structural damage found, and re-roofing to current standards with the right materials for the property.
There is a point with any roof where patching it becomes more expensive than replacing it, and more importantly, less effective. If water is getting in through several different areas, if the underfelt has broken down and is no longer directing water to the gutters, or if a roofer has found rotted battens or rafters beneath the tiles, the structure itself needs to be addressed. Repair work on top of a failing substrate simply delays the inevitable.
A full replacement strips everything back to the timber frame, which is the only way to inspect it properly and deal with whatever is found. Common problems that only become visible at this stage include rafter ends that have rotted from prolonged contact with damp, battens that have split or shifted over decades, and old bitumen felt that has become brittle and torn. None of these can be addressed through surface-level repair work.
If your roof is leaking in more than one place, has had repairs carried out in the same areas more than once, or is approaching the end of the expected lifespan for its material, a replacement is worth getting a proper quote for. Comparing the cost of a replacement against the cumulative cost of ongoing repairs often produces a straightforward answer.
The material that goes back on your roof affects both how it performs and how long it lasts. The main options for pitched roofs are natural slate, clay tiles and concrete tiles, each with different characteristics and price points.
On properties in or near conservation areas, material choice may be subject to planning restrictions. Your roofer should check this at the outset so you are not committed to a material that cannot be approved.
A full roof replacement follows the same sequence. Scaffolding goes up first, providing safe working access and a degree of protection for the property during the strip. The existing tiles or slates are then removed, followed by the old battens and underfelt, exposing the rafter structure beneath.
At that point the timber is inspected. Any rafters showing rot, movement or damage are cut out and replaced with new treated timber before anything else happens. New breathable membrane is laid over the whole roof, followed by new treated battens at the correct gauge for the chosen tile or slate. The new covering is then laid from the eaves up, with proper lead or suitable alternative flashing at every junction - around chimneys, at wall abutments, in valleys and at verges.
Ridge tiles go on last. Traditionally these are bedded in mortar, but dry-fix mechanical systems are increasingly common and eliminate the cracking problem that affects mortar pointing over time.
For a standard three-bedroom semi-detached house in Norfolk, a full roof replacement typically costs in the range of £5,000 to £9,000. Larger detached properties, or those where natural slate is specified, will sit higher - often £10,000 to £14,000 or above. These figures cover scaffolding, stripping and disposal of the old roof, and the complete re-roofing. Structural repairs to rafters, replacing fascia boards, or adding roof windows are priced on top once the extent of any work is established.
A quote that comes in significantly below the typical range deserves scrutiny. Underlay quality, flashing materials and the grade of slate or tile are the areas where a cheap job often cuts corners, and those corners tend to produce problems within a few years.
Once you have identified that your roof needs replacing and a roofer is booked, there will often be a wait for scaffolding, materials or a slot in the schedule. That period can feel frustrating, especially if there is water getting in. Here is practical advice on what you can sensibly do yourself, and what you should not attempt.
If there is an active leak, your priority is protecting the interior of the property. Move furniture and belongings away from the affected area. Place a bucket or container to catch dripping water and check it regularly. Lay down plastic sheeting or old towels to protect flooring. In a loft, a container positioned under the drip point is enough - you do not need to go further.
If water is coming through a ceiling and the ceiling is bulging or bowing, carefully make a small hole at the lowest point of the bulge with a screwdriver to release the collected water in a controlled way. This sounds counterintuitive, but a bulging ceiling full of water puts significant weight on the plasterboard and is more likely to collapse entirely if left. Release it in one controlled spot into a bucket and the ceiling will almost certainly stay intact.
There is very little safe DIY work on a roof, but there are things you can do from the ground or from inside the loft that are genuinely useful.
This section matters more than the one above. Falls from roofs are among the most serious accident types in domestic settings, and the risk is real even on a dry day. Beyond the safety issue, well-intentioned DIY on a roof can make the actual repair or replacement more complicated.
If there is a known area of active leaking, make sure this is clearly communicated when you book the work and again when the roofer arrives. If the situation changes between booking and the start date - if the leak gets worse, if more tiles have slipped, or if you notice new damp patches in the loft - call and update them. A roofer who knows the situation can sometimes prioritise the most vulnerable area first thing on day one, rather than working through the strip in the default sequence.
Ask at the quoting stage what happens if structural damage is found once the roof is open. Responsible roofers will tell you upfront that they cannot price for what they cannot yet see, but they should be able to give you an indication of what typical repairs cost per rafter and how additional work would be communicated and agreed before it is carried out.
If your roof is showing signs that repairs alone are not fixing the problem, arrange a proper assessment. A good roofer should take a clear look, explain what they find, and provide a clear price before any work begins.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
