If your walls are showing early signs of trouble, exterior cladding in Loddon could be the fix that stops minor problems turning into costly repairs.
Exterior cladding is a layer of material fixed over the outside face of your walls. It acts as a weather barrier, keeping rain, wind and cold away from the underlying structure. At the same time, it gives the building a clean, uniform finish that is straightforward to maintain.
There are several materials to choose from. uPVC (sometimes called plastic cladding) is popular because it does not rot, does not need painting and wipes clean. Composite cladding uses a blend of materials to give the look of timber without the upkeep. Fibre cement boards are heavier and more rigid, suited to larger or more exposed elevations. Each material comes in a range of profiles, from flat panels to horizontal laps that mimic weatherboarding.
The right choice depends on your wall type, your budget and the look you want. We will always assess the existing wall surface before recommending a system, because cladding fixed to a damp or failing substrate will not perform as it should.
This is the part many homeowners miss. Exterior cladding problems rarely appear overnight, and by the time something looks obviously wrong, the issue has usually been developing for months or longer. Knowing what to look for early can save you a significant amount of money.
If you notice damp patches on internal walls, especially after heavy rain, the outer wall covering is likely letting water past. This does not always mean the cladding itself has failed. Sometimes the fixings have corroded and left small gaps. Sometimes the flashing around a window or door has lifted. But the result is the same: water is tracking through the wall and causing damage on the inside.
Left alone, persistent damp leads to mould growth, damaged plasterwork, rotting lintels and, in timber-framed properties, structural softening. Cladding or re-cladding the affected elevation is often the most cost-effective way to resolve it properly rather than patching from the inside.
Sand and cement render is common on older properties. Over time it cracks, usually because of thermal movement or because water has got behind it and frozen. Once the render starts to blow (separate from the wall beneath), it no longer keeps water out. Tapping the wall with a knuckle produces a hollow sound where it has lifted.
Blown render left in place tends to fall away in chunks, taking moisture with it into the wall. Cladding over repaired or cleaned-back masonry is a long-term alternative to repeated render patching, particularly on elevations that face the prevailing weather.
Green or black streaking down a wall is more than an aesthetic issue. Algae and lichen hold moisture against the wall surface and accelerate the breakdown of render, pointing and masonry. Persistent green growth is a sign that the wall is staying wet for long periods, which points to a drainage problem, a missing or failed drip edge, or porous materials that are no longer performing.
Cladding, once installed correctly with the right drainage cavity behind it, prevents water from sitting against the wall in the first place. This is why many homeowners choose cladding not just for appearance but to deal with a recurring damp or staining problem they cannot otherwise solve.
Timber cladding, particularly softwood that has not been maintained, can rot from the bottom up. The first signs are often paint peeling at the lower boards, then softness when you press a finger against the timber, then visible warping or gaps opening between boards. Sections that have rotted cannot simply be painted over. The affected boards need to come off, the substrate needs to be checked and treated, and new cladding needs to go on correctly with adequate ventilation behind it.
Replacing like-for-like with timber is an option, but many homeowners take the opportunity to switch to a lower-maintenance material so they do not face the same problem in ten or fifteen years.
Where cladding meets a window or door frame, a sealed junction is essential. If that seal fails, or if the cladding was never properly trimmed and flashed in the first place, water finds its way in at the joint. You may notice paint peeling around window reveals, damp patches below sills or swollen architraves inside. These are all indicators that the junction detail has broken down.
A good installation always includes proper flashings, trims and mastic sealing at every opening. If you are having cladding installed, always ask how windows and doors will be detailed and what trims will be used.
Poor original installation is one of the most common causes. Cladding fixed without a proper drainage cavity, or without adequate ventilation behind the boards, traps moisture and causes exactly the problems listed above. Fixings that are too short or the wrong material for the substrate corrode or pull out over time.
Age is another factor. Even well-installed cladding will eventually need attention. uPVC can become brittle after many years of UV exposure. Fibre cement boards can delaminate if they have been repeatedly wet and dry cycled. Checking the condition of older cladding every few years, particularly at junctions and at ground level, is a straightforward way to catch problems early.
Before any cladding goes on, the wall needs to be assessed. Any loose render or failed material should come off. Damp masonry needs time to dry, or treatment, before you board over it. Battens are then fixed to the wall to create a ventilated cavity. The cladding boards or panels fix to the battens, not directly to the wall, which allows air to circulate and moisture to escape downward.
Windows, doors and any penetrations through the wall are trimmed and flashed before the boards go on around them. The bottom of the cladding needs a starter strip and adequate clearance above ground or roof level to prevent water wicking up from below.
A typical residential elevation takes one to three days depending on size and complexity. Scaffold or access equipment is usually needed for anything above ground floor.
Exterior cladding for a standard semi-detached house typically runs from around £3,000 to £8,000 or more, depending on the material chosen, the area covered and the amount of preparation work needed. uPVC tends to sit at the lower end of that range; composite and fibre cement boards cost more for material but can last significantly longer with minimal upkeep.
Getting a proper survey of the wall before agreeing a price matters. Any contractor quoting without inspecting the wall cannot tell you what preparation is needed, and preparation costs vary enormously depending on what is found underneath.
If you have noticed any of the warning signs above, or if you simply want to know whether cladding is the right option for your home, call us to arrange a roof and wall survey. We cover Loddon and the surrounding area, including properties in and around Norwich. We will tell you honestly what the wall needs and what your options are before any commitment is made.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
