If your chimney stack in Spixworth is causing a leak or looks unstable, there are useful steps you can take before a roofer arrives - and a few things you should definitely not attempt yourself.
Noticing that a chimney stack is leaking, cracking, or visibly deteriorating is unsettling, particularly if water is already coming in. The instinct is often to do something immediately. Sometimes that's the right call. But for chimney problems specifically, some of the most instinctive responses can make things worse or create a safety risk.
This page runs through what you can do usefully while you wait for a roofer to attend, what temporary measures make sense, and what to keep away from.
Not every chimney problem needs same-day attention, but some do. A chimney stack that is visibly leaning, has bricks that have already fallen or are sitting loose at the top, or that has caused a section of roof covering to collapse is a safety concern. In those cases, keep people away from the area below the stack, both inside and outside the house, until a roofer has assessed it.
If bricks have already fallen into a room or onto a flat roof area below, don't re-enter that space until the structure has been confirmed safe. A single loose pot or a displaced haunch of mortar at the top of the stack is less urgent but still needs professional attention rather than a DIY fix at height.
If the chimney stack is allowing water into the property, the priority inside the house is containing and limiting damage to ceilings, floors, and furnishings. Here is what is genuinely helpful.
Homeowners sometimes attempt to apply a temporary cover to a leaking chimney while waiting for a roofer. The honest answer is that anything temporary is better than nothing if water is actively damaging the interior, but there are limits to what is safe and practical from ground level or a first-floor window.
A tarpaulin thrown over the top of a stack from below - tied with rope around the chimney pot - can reduce water entry temporarily if it stays in place. It won't waterproof the flashing area properly, but it can reduce the volume of water entering through the top of the flue. If the pot is already displaced or the haunch is broken, any covering needs to account for that gap.
What doesn't work - and creates new problems - is applying roofing sealant, expanding foam, or silicone around the base of the stack or the flashing from a ladder. These products are not a substitute for properly dressed lead or correctly pointed masonry, and in some cases they trap moisture inside the construction rather than directing it away. They can also make subsequent professional repair more difficult and expensive.
This section is worth being direct about because chimney work carries specific risks that other DIY jobs don't.
Do not get onto the roof. A domestic pitched roof is not a safe working surface without the right equipment, footwear, and training. Falls from roofs are among the most common causes of serious DIY injury. This applies even if access looks straightforward from a dormer window or a flat section nearby. A roofer uses scaffold precisely because working from a proper platform is both safer and more accurate than working from a roof surface.
Do not attempt to remove loose bricks or a displaced pot yourself. A brick or pot that looks as though it could be safely removed by hand is often less stable than it appears, and dislodging one can disturb others. At chimney height, a falling brick is a serious hazard to anyone below. If brickwork is visibly loose, treat the area below as unsafe and call a roofer to assess it under proper conditions.
Do not apply cement over existing failed flashing or mortar. A common DIY response to a visible crack or gap in the mortar haunching around a chimney pot is to apply fresh cement or a ready-mixed mortar patch. This rarely bonds properly to weathered masonry, holds moisture against the joint rather than shedding it, and can mask a deeper problem. It almost always needs to be removed before a proper repair or take-down can be carried out.
Do not seal the fireplace opening below without taking advice first. If water is coming down through the flue and into the fireplace, the instinct is to block the opening. This is usually fine - but if the flue was partially open at the top and you fully seal it at the bottom, you can create condensation problems or trap damp air in the stack. A roofer or builder can advise on the right way to seal or vent a redundant fireplace opening.
The more detail you can give, the more accurately a roofer can assess the urgency and come prepared. Before you call, it helps to know:
This information helps a roofer arrive with the right materials and a realistic picture of what they're likely to find. It also means the survey visit can be more productive.
Once a roofer comes out to assess the chimney, they should inspect the stack at close range - ideally from scaffold or using a ladder to get to roof level - rather than giving an opinion from the ground only. They should be able to tell you what they find, what the options are (repair or full take-down), what each option involves, and what it is likely to cost.
A full chimney take-down typically includes erecting scaffold for safe access, dismantling the stack down to at or just below roof level, reinstating the roof covering with matching tiles or slates, and removing all waste from site. Costs for a single residential stack, done properly including scaffold and full roof reinstatement, generally fall between £1,200 and £2,500, depending on the size of the stack and the type of roof covering involved.
If your chimney stack in Spixworth is causing concern - whether it's leaking, visibly deteriorating, or you're simply not sure what state it's in - call Norwich Roofers to arrange a roof survey. We'll come out, take a proper look, and give you a clear assessment of what needs doing and what it will cost.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
