Norwich Roofers carries out chimney rebuilds for homeowners in Poringland, and this page walks you through exactly what a proper rebuild involves at every stage.
The first step is always a proper inspection from scaffold level. You cannot make a reliable judgment about a chimney stack from the ground, a ladder or even a set of drone photographs. Up close, a surveyor can tap the mortar joints to check for hollowness, press the bricks to feel for movement, check the condition of the flaunching and pot collar, lift the edge of any existing flashing to see what is underneath, and look down the flue if access allows.
From this inspection, we identify exactly how far down the damage runs. This determines whether the job is a partial rebuild (taking down only the affected upper courses) or a full rebuild from just above the roofline. The inspection also tells us whether the flashing needs to come off and be replaced, or whether it can be refitted once the stack is rebuilt.
A clear scope of work, agreed before anything is taken apart, prevents disputes and surprises. Make sure any contractor you use confirms in writing or clearly in a quote how many courses will come down, whether the pot and flaunching are included, and what happens to the flashing.
Once the scope is agreed, scaffold goes up before any other work begins. A proper chimney scaffold sits around and above the stack, giving a flat working platform at the right height. It protects the roof below from dropped materials and gives the bricklayer a stable base to work from. A scaffold platform also means the finished work can be done accurately, at a safe pace, without rushing.
Scaffold is hired for the duration of the job, which for a standard chimney rebuild is typically a few days of active work, plus the hiring period either side. The scaffold company erects and strikes it before and after the roofing team works. On some properties, scaffold boards or sheeting may be needed to protect the garden or a conservatory below the chimney. This should be discussed and planned before erection.
The takedown is the dusty, noisy part of the job. Damaged brickwork is carefully removed course by course from the top down, stopping at the point where the remaining brickwork is sound and stable. Each course is checked as it comes down. Sometimes the damage turns out to be less deep than expected; sometimes it is worse. Either way, the correct stopping point is solid brickwork with intact, properly bonded joints.
Debris is lowered in a bucket or bag rather than thrown off the roof. Good practice means the roof tiles immediately around the chimney are checked for any that have been disturbed during the process, and any loose tiles are re-secured before work continues. All brick and mortar rubble from the takedown is removed from site at the end of the job.
Before any new brickwork goes up, the top of the remaining stack is cleaned back to a flat, sound bed. Old mortar is raked out or ground back, loose material is removed, and the surface is dampened if conditions require it. Brick dust and debris blown into the flue opening are cleared. If the flashing is being replaced, the old lead is removed at this point and the mortar joints it was fixed into are cleaned out ready for the new fixings.
This preparation stage is not glamorous but it is important. New mortar will not bond properly to a dusty or dried-out surface. Skipping thorough preparation is one of the reasons chimney repairs fail prematurely.
New brickwork goes up in courses, each one laid in fresh mortar and checked for level and plumb as the work progresses. Matching the bond pattern (the way the bricks overlap from course to course) to the existing stack below is part of doing the job neatly. The mortar mix is specified to suit the property: a lime-gauged mortar for older or softer-brick stacks, a standard cement-lime-sand mix for most modern brickwork.
Bricks are selected to match the original as closely as possible in colour and texture. Because brick tones vary from property to property, sourcing a good match in advance of the rebuild is part of the preparation process rather than an afterthought.
Each course is allowed to set sufficiently before the next goes on. Rushing the build-up can cause the fresh mortar in lower joints to squeeze out under the weight of bricks above, weakening the bond. The stack is built up to the original height unless there is a specific reason to alter it.
Once the brickwork has had time to firm up, the flaunching is applied around the base of the chimney pot. The flaunching is the angled mortar cap that holds the pot in position and sheds rainwater away from the joint. It is shaped to fall away from the pot collar on all sides. If the pot is cracked or was poorly set before, a new terracotta pot is fitted first. The flaunching is finished neatly and allowed to cure before any loading is placed on it.
If the flashing is new, Code 4 or Code 5 lead sheet is cut, shaped and dressed into place in sections. Stepped flashing goes up each side of the stack, an apron goes across the front face, and a back gutter is formed behind the stack where needed. The lead is fixed by wedging sections into freshly raked mortar joints, which are then pointed over with fresh mortar. The lead is dressed tightly to the tiles using a wooden dresser to ensure it sheds water cleanly at every edge.
If existing lead flashing is in sound condition, it can sometimes be refitted and re-pointed rather than replaced. This reduces cost but is only appropriate where the lead is undamaged and of adequate thickness.
Any fresh mortar joints in the new brickwork are weather-struck or finished to match the existing stack below. The scaffold platform is cleared of all waste, the roof surface is checked and any displaced tiles are re-bedded. Scaffold is struck once the work has been signed off, and all rubble and packaging materials are taken away. You should be left with a clean site and a stack that looks right on the roof.
After the scaffold comes down, look at the completed work from ground level to check the brick colour match, the flaunching profile and the visible sections of flashing. Any good contractor will welcome that check and deal with any cosmetic concerns before leaving site.
If you are concerned about the condition of your chimney stack, call us to arrange a proper scaffold-level inspection. We work across Poringland, Norwich and the surrounding villages, and we will give you a clear account of what the stack needs before any work begins. Costs for a chimney rebuild in this area typically range from £1,500 to £4,500 depending on stack size, height, the number of courses involved and whether flashing and pots need replacing. An inspection is the only way to give you an accurate figure for your specific property.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
